Hanging sleeves for quilts are required for most quilt shows and instructions are available many places online. I have for years used the instructions from the American Quilters Society website, as I consider them the definitive resource for such things. Recently, however, I’ve made a few tweaks that I think make the process easier.

Here are my changes, step by step. If you aren’t already familiar with how to make a hanging sleeve, go to the AQS site for basic instructions. These are just my changes.

1. Use leftover quilt backing (108″ wide) to reduce the number of strips that have to be joined.
   

   I often buy backing in 3-yard packs, and that means there’s some left over that’s still 108″ wide

2. Use two rulers to add up to the 8.5″ width needed for a regulation quilt sleeve and cut a strip 8.5″ x width of fabric. Cut whichever way gives you the longest strip. In this case, I had a full width of fabric, so I got a strip 108″ long!
3. If you’re making sleeves ahead of time, just stop here and roll up the fabric for storage. If you’re ready to use it for a sleeve, measure across the width of the quilt and cut a length of sleeve 1″ less than that. (Most instructions say to cut the width of the quilt then hem the ends, but that’s unnecessary.)
4. Now serge or zigzag the ends of the strip to finish them. Most modern machines have the equivalent of a serger stitch, so you don’t necessarily need a serger to do this.
   

   Just serge the ends to finish the edges rather than hemming.

5. Fold the sleeve lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press lightly so the fold opposite the raw edges can be seen. Either join the raw edges with a 1/4″ seam or serge them together.
6. Baste 1/4″ from the folded edge of the sleeve, opposite where you just joined the raw edges. This allows for the ease required in the sleeve so the quilt will hang flat when a big pole is put through the sleeve.
   

   Left arrow points to the basting; right arrow points to the seam joining the raw edges

7. Now re-fold the sleeve, still lengthwise, so the basted seam is on top and the seam that joined the raw edges is on the bottom.
8. Attach the sleeve to the quilt back by hand. Note that the way the raw edges were joined puts the long seam on the outside of the sleeve, facing the back of the quilt. It’s thus out of the way.
9. It’s possible to avoid half this hand work if you think waaaay ahead and put the top edge of the sleeve under the binding as you attach the binding, but really, who plans like that?
10. After attaching the sleeve, remove the basting stitches

One more thing: After the quilt show, remove the sleeve to be used on the next quilt! Making a hanging sleeve still isn’t my favorite thing to do, but it’s easier with these little modifications.

Here’s another quilt made from circles cut out of orphan blocks.

I asked a friend whether to re-design the whole thing or have it quilted as is, and she said it would be fine if it had a really interesting quilting design. She here is the Aboriginal panto, done by Linda Nichols in gold thread.

Quilt Stats

Name: More Circles

Finished size: 50″ x 72″

Design by: me

Quilted by: Linda Nichols

The good news is that a big pile of orphan blocks just went to a guild that’s making small wallhangings for the doors in a nursing home. That leaves me with only a few hundred to do something with 😀

Studio Stitch is having a Christmas in July event, and I asked to make something with a snowman for it. After searching through available patterns, we selected this cute wall hanging (or table runner, maybe) by Sandy Fitzpatrich of HissyFitz Designs.

I’ll be teaching this in July, but the patterns started selling as soon as the class sample went up, so the shop is re-ordering. If you’re comfortable with fusible applique there’s no need for a class, since this is pretty easy. However, that cute cardinal in the center block needs to be assembled separately, on a special applique sheet, and then fused to the block.

The pattern is available from Studio Stitch, either in person or by mail, and I’ll be teaching the class July 27. There are other fun holiday-related classes planned, as well; you can see them on the shop’s website.

My latest quilts are for two special little people. The first is a “big boy” quilt for the boy who’s going to be a big brother. The second is for the baby, who isn’t here yet!

First, here’s the Big Boy quilt. His Mother says he likes Mickey Mouse, but when I looked at those fabrics it seemed like he’d outgrow them too fast. However, he’s playing with a ball whenever we see him, and his Dad coaches football, so his quilt has a team sports theme, with basketballs, footballs, and baseballs.

That blue baseball pennant may or may not be hiding a little boo-boo…

The baby’s room has a Sesame Street theme! I guess that’s coming back around, because I found the fabric with no difficulty.

Both quilts are backed with light-weight poly fleece so they feel yummy. There’s no batting, so they’re light enough to be dragged around and made into tents. And the designs of the tops are simple, allowing the fabrics to shine.

So, after 10 years of making children’s’ quilts for a number of young friends, here are my recommendations:

1. Choose a fabric that is likely to interest the child for the next 5 years.
2. Use a simple pattern. Nobody’s looking at your piecing; they’re looking at the cute fabric. Ask me how I know.
3. Also, use a simple pattern because who EVER starts these things with time to spare?
4. Back with poly fleece and don’t add batting. Feedback from my grandkids tells me this is the most practical, kid-friendly way to do it.

Anybody have anything to add?